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Seven Tips For Shooting Fine Photos In Foul Conditions

Text and photography by Scott Eldridge, August, 2005

As a host of outdoor photographic workshops, I frequently find myself shooting in a variety of difficult weather conditions. While foul weather requires the photographer to adopt creative techniques, it also provides unique possibilities for striking images.

Tip 1: Wet City Scenes
Wet conditions offer many opportunities for compelling city scenes because the weather often conveys a dark mood with interesting lighting that doesn’t occur under dry conditions. Wet pavement can become a light source in your images, reflecting diffused overhead light, car headlights, or building signs. The result is often a very dramatic photograph.

The wet pavement reflects multi-colored lights in this 30-second exposure.

Urban scenes also take on a different mood in foul weather. A yellow-orange gel was placed over the lens and a long shutter speed (1/2 second) was used to shoot this Ferris wheel in Paris. The gel gives the bland sky some interest. Try using slow shutter speeds with your camera mounted on a tripod to spice-up your rainy day scenics.

If conventional city scenes just aren't working for you, try shooting some interesting close-up details that convey the history or culture of the city.

A spinning Parisian Ferris wheel with the Eiffel Tower standing in the background.

Tip 2: Cold & Snowy Conditions
Cold, snowy conditions can result in some of the most uncomfortable and rewarding photography you will ever experience.

Cold makes your fingers stiff and you lose dexterity quickly, which makes it difficult to change shutter speed and aperture settings. Inexpensive chemical hand-warmer packets are a great solution to this problem. I keep one in each glove for extended shooting in cold conditions.

It’s important to be very conscious of your breath condensing on the back of a cold camera when focusing or shooting; this moisture can freeze and damage the equipment. It is extremely easy to fog the viewfinder or a digital LCD display through normal exhalation. Try turning your head to the side a bit and exhale away from the camera.

Heavy ice cover the needles of this evergreen. A small aperture setting (f/32) and fill flash were used to ensure enough depth-of-field and illumination.

Tip 3: Shooting Storms and Fog
Photographing storms and foggy weather can also result in some dramatic imagery. The key to shooting storms is to keep your safety in mind, and concentrate on finding the most dramatic light. Look for the sun breaking through clouds, rainbows, or bolts of lightning. Make sure you are indoors shooting through a window when photographing thunderstorms and lightning.

A foggy, wet landscape in Grand Teton National Park conveys a quiet mood.

I bracket exposures heavily on the plus side when shooting foggy scenes to avoid underexposing these shots. Underexposed fog scenes tend to result in muddy shadows without much detail.

Lightning strike during a New York thunderstorm. This was shot by setting the camera on bulb with an aperture at f/8 with ISO 100 film. The shutter was held open until a lightning strike hit.

Tip 4: Rainy-Day Macro Shots
Wet conditions on calm windless days often make for terrific macro photography. I generally use fill flash in this situation to allow me to stop down the camera for maximum depth of field. It is important to remember that water droplets create little specular highlights when illuminated with a flash, so the extra strobe light needs to be in keeping with the mood of your shot. I often tape a light yellow or orange gel over the flash to warm the light a bit.

An off-camera fill-flash was used to illuminate this delicate pink lady slipper.


A nearly perfect maple leaf really contrasts well against wet green background foliage shot in light rain.

Tip 5: Seashore Images
Combine water, wind, salt, and sand and you have a recipe for disaster lurking in every shot. Yet, I love the dramatic look of waves crashing against a Caribbean coral head or surfers on the north shore of Oahu, but you need to carefully plan these shots in advance.

Be extremely careful to avoid dropping your camera in the sand. Once it hits the sand, it's toast. Sand will find its way into the lens and the body and will trash moving parts. To avoid this, I shoot handheld seashore shots with my camera strap securely around my neck. For tripod shots, I loop the camera strap around the tripod head knobs to make sure it doesn't accidentally fall off the tripod into the sand. I also keep the camera safely in the camera bag until I'm ready to shoot; then I quickly put it back in the bag between shots.

Giant bursts of spray erupt from the famous blow holes on the shore of Grand Cayman, British West Indies coated my equipment in salt spray.

Salt spray can also be very damaging. It leaves a sticky film on the camera and lens, resulting in blurry, soft images. I use a clean, damp cloth to wipe down the camera, and a lens cleaning fluid with microfiber cloth to clean the lens after shooting in salt spray conditions.

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